A NEW dermatology study offers compelling evidence that targeted lipid supplementation can restore the skin barrier in adults with a history of atopic dermatitis, outperforming commonly used emollients.
In a randomized, double-blind, intra-participant-controlled study, researchers tested the effects of a multivesicular emulsion containing physiologic lipids and glycerine (MVE+GL) against a standard oil-in-water emulsion with glycerine but no added lipids (OW+G). The study involved 58 adult participants (mean age 46±21 years) with eczema-prone skin.
Participants applied the test formulations to opposite limbs twice daily for 28 days. Skin assessments included transepidermal water loss (TEWL), erythema response to sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS), and lipidomic profiling of the stratum corneum (SC).
The results were striking. MVE+GL significantly improved skin barrier integrity, reducing TEWL from 38.02±18.64 g/m²/h to 29.79±13.47 g/m²/h (p=0.0002). OW+G showed no significant change. Post-SLS sensitivity also improved with MVE+GL, with reduced TEWL and erythema, indicating enhanced resilience.
Lipidomic analysis revealed that MVE+GL increased levels of ceramide NP and AP species containing 18-carbon sphingoid bases—key building blocks in skin barrier function—by 24% and 19% respectively. These increases were associated with visible improvement in dryness and barrier function, while OW+G sites showed only non-significant lipid changes.
Although OW+G provided some hydration benefits, the study concludes that it did not improve the physical integrity of the skin barrier. In contrast, MVE+GL provided a targeted intervention that not only moisturized but actively restored skin barrier function and reduced sensitivity in individuals at risk of atopic dermatitis flare-ups.
This research highlights the clinical importance of using emollients that go beyond hydration to address the underlying lipid deficiencies in eczema-prone skin.
Reference:
Andrew PV et al. Topical supplementation with physiologic lipids rebalances the stratum corneum ceramide profile and strengthens skin barrier function in adults predisposed to atopic dermatitis. Br J Dermatol. 2025;ljaf200.
